Diving at Isla del Cano

As a Suunto ambassador I have the chance to participate in numerous challenging activities around the globe. A mountain bike endurance race has taken me back to Costa Rica every year since 2006. Unaware that I could fit new sports activities in my bulky agenda, Central America became at the same time, my diving schoolyard. I now pursue diving with the same intensity and passion I pursue mountain biking or climbing. I now feel the same passion on my quest for a mountain summit as the one I feel to discover a new diving spot.

Having travelled extensively in Costa Rica for three years in a row, I am certain that the pristine rainforests and the rugged natural beauty of the Osa Peninsula make this region among the most beautiful areas in Costa Rica. Declared 'one of the most biologically intense places on earth' by the National Geographic Magazine, the Osa Peninsula along with Drake Bay have today become the premier eco-tourism destination in the county.

Drake Bay or Bahia Drake lies on the northern end of Osa Peninsula in Punta Arenas. Probably one of the most well known destinations in the region, this tiny town by the bay is actually one of the most inaccessible places in the entire country. It has a rich history as it was first discovered by Sir Francis Drake in 1579 during his circumnavigation of the globe; Drake Bay is the gateway to visiting to Corcovado National Park as well as enjoying a plethora of other activities and tours in the region.

The Isla del Caño lies 17 km west of Drake Bay. The island and its environments invite study from several points of view. It is Costa Rica's largest concentration of coral-building organisms along the Pacific. Schools of tangs, jacks and needlefish present an ever-changing panorama to those who venture below the surface. Boring sponges, Diadema sea urchins, sea cucumbers, many crustaceans and calcareous alga mats and balls add to the variety of life found among the Porites and Pocillopora corals of these reefs.

Humpback whales are seasonally present and often sighted from boat tours which surround this island. Although rich in marine resources, the area is little studied apart from the reefs of the Isla del Caño.

I probably couldn't think of a better way to describe how good diving in this area can get other than describing the 'Japanese diver story' mentioned by Brian Chavez. Brian, born in Denver Colorado, is Jinetes de Osa's owner. He is one of those buddies who either consciously smile through the entire day or were born with smile drawn on their face.

This friendly biochemist by formation, early in his career travelled to Costa Rica and turned down job offers in Chicago while looking to buy land at Drake Peninsula.

Here's a summary of our chat together and the distinctive 'Japanese diver story'.

How did you become Jinetes de Osa's owner?

Brian: As I was spending my days in Sierpe, I met this guy Santiago who was a Captain. I mean, a real Captain with a cigarette in his mouth all the time. He would roll the cigarette into his mouth to keep it from getting wet if it rains. He was the one who told me that Jinetes de Osa was for sale, I made an offer and two month later I become the owner. At first, our diving centre didn't look that great. I remember a tourist passing by asked me whether this building was a 'kind of factory'.

So, tell us about the 'Japanese diver story' please.

Brian: Five years ago, a young Japanese man turned up to do the PADI Open Waters course. Although he had no previous diving experience, he was well equipped with an underwater camera worth around US 5000. On our first dive, we were lucky enough to see a whale shark.

On our second day, we did two consecutive dives. It turned out that we saw a great hammer head on our first dive that day and even more impressive, an Orca and its calf.

On our third day and final dive we spotted a big sting ray. As my student was getting ready to snap a picture of the ray, which was fairly close to us, a big hammer head grab the ray and scared the heck out of him, dropping the camera and not being able to take any picture.

Although this might not be exactly what happens in every single dive at Drake, the Japanese experience pictures very well the diversity that can be found while diving at Isla del Caño.

Given the fact that you are surrounded by wonderful nature; does it encourage you to run any green policies at Jinetes de Osa?

Brian: Yes, we have a small program of recycling batteries used by our customers. As Costa Rica doesn't recycle batteries, we encourage our customers to take them back with them in order to be recycled at their own countries. We also capture water from the rain, to save water supply.

We would also like to become the first carbon neutral hotel in Costa Rica, by offering our customers air-conditioned rooms if they pay to compensate for the emissions that this produce.

If you are interested in diving at Isla del Caño, please visit www.costaricadiving.com

Read more about Manuel's diving trips in his blog

Ground photography: Yann Feron
Underwater photograpy: Shawn Larkin